As a Bethlehem metal roof coating contractor, we inspect commercial metal roofs, fix loose fasteners and open laps, then coat the panels so water runs off again.
Bethlehem metal roof coating starts with the roof you have. Each row below covers one system, what it suits, and what we check before it goes on.
Ribbed steel panels on warehouses and shops get washed, rust-primed, and fastener-sealed before a coating goes over the field, the laps, and the ridge, so the roof is covered as one system.
Silicone goes on thick and stays flexible on low pitches, and it handles slow drainage better than most coatings. Low spots and blocked outlets still get corrected, since a coating covers only what is under it.
Acrylic is water based and reflects sun well on metal roofs that shed water. Each pass needs dry, mild weather to cure, so spring and fall work in the Lehigh Valley is planned around cold nights.
Spray foam builds a continuous insulated layer over metal panels or an older flat roof, then takes a protective topcoat. Overspray control near trucks, cars, and air intakes is planned before the rig arrives.
A coating fits only shingles that are still flat, attached, and dry, and only with a product made for asphalt. Curling or brittle shingles point to replacement, and we say so at the inspection.
Leaks on metal roofs start in five places. Here is what each zone shows before coating, and what gets fixed first.
Wind lifts eave trim and coping first, and summer storms pull at it again. Displaced metal is refastened or replaced before coating, because a coating film cannot hold loose metal down.
Side laps open as panels expand and shrink through freeze-thaw seasons. Rust starts at the overlap, then spreads under the old paint. Laps get cleaned, primed, and sealed with mastic or fabric.
Thousands of screws hold a metal roof, and every washer dries out over time. Loose screws are swapped for oversized ones where the hole has grown, then each head is sealed.
Snowmelt that backs up behind ice in a gutter finds the weakest lap near the eave. Gutters, outlets, and downspouts are cleared and checked so water leaves the roof after it is coated.
Rooftop units, exhaust fans, and pipe penetrations each break the panel. Cracked boots and open curb flashing are rebuilt before coating, and the coating is carried up and over each detail.
Four steps take a roof from leaking to coated. The inspection decides whether the rest happens at all.
We walk the panels, laps, screw rows, gutters, and curbs, and we check under the deck where access allows. Wet insulation, rust-through, and old patches all go on the inspection sheet.
Loose screws, open laps, cracked boots, and displaced trim get fixed first. Panels with holes are replaced, so the coating goes only over metal that still holds its fasteners.
Pressure washing removes chalk, dirt, and loose paint. Rusted areas are wire-brushed and primed, and the panels are checked for dew or frost before any coating is mixed.
Coating goes on at the specified thickness, with extra passes at laps and fasteners. Film thickness is checked as we go, and the roof is walked again after the final coat cures.
Call or start a ballpark estimate. A short list of what you already know about the roof makes the first visit faster.
Get A Free Ballpark EstimateA coating keeps the panels you own in service when the steel is firm. These four gains show up on a roof that was prepared right.
Firm steel stays in place, so the job skips tear-off and keeps the interior closed to weather. Racks, stock, and loading docks below keep working while each section is coated.
Each lap and every screw head gets sealed before the topcoat, and the coating ties them into one surface. Leaks that moved from lap to lap have fewer places left to start.
Light coatings reflect more summer sun than weathered steel does. Upper floors under the deck heat up less, and how much less depends on the insulation and venting.
When the coating wears, it gets cleaned and recoated with a compatible product. Keeping that cycle going on firm panels pushes a full roof replacement further out.
Match what you see on your roof to the job it usually leads to. The dots are general guidance, and the inspection makes the call.
| What You See On The Roof | Coat After Prep | Repair, Then Coat | Replace Panels |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chalky, faded paint on firm steel | Usually fits | Rarely | Rarely |
| Surface rust along laps and screw rows | Sometimes | Usually fits | Rarely |
| Leaks at a few curbs or pipe boots | Sometimes | Usually fits | Rarely |
| Rust holes you can see daylight through | Rarely | Sometimes | Usually fits |
| Panels that flex underfoot or loose purlin screws | Rarely | Sometimes | Usually fits |
| Wet insulation found under the deck | Rarely | Sometimes | Usually fits |
Planning ranges: about $2.50 to $4.00 per square foot to coat, and about $5 to $8 per square foot to replace.
Warehouses, brick plants, offices, and equipment buildings in these towns are where we coat metal roofs most. Elsewhere? call us or send us a message.
Short answers first, then the detail behind them.
For many metal buildings, yes, provided the steel is firm and the insulation under it is dry. Coating keeps those panels working without a tear-off. Where rust has eaten through or screws no longer hold, money spent on coating goes into a roof that still needs replacing, so the inspection settles it first.
Coating usually costs less up front. Our planning range is about $2.50 to $4.00 per square foot for coating and about $5 to $8 for replacement. Rust prep, lap work, fastener sealing, coating type, thickness, and flashing all move a coating price inside that range, and the inspection decides whether coating fits at all.
Look at the old finish more than the dirt on it. Chalking, bare metal showing at the ribs, and coating that peels at laps or screws mean the roof needs more than a wash.
Before any recoat we test that the old layer is still stuck down, since new coating over a loose layer comes off with it.
Mostly, with one extra check. Farm and equipment buildings often drip from condensation under the panels, which looks like a leak. We look at ventilation and interior moisture beside the exterior laps and screws. Coating handles water coming in from outside, while moisture made inside the building needs ventilation or insulation work.
Often, yes. Scattered warehouse leaks usually trace back to a handful of laps, screw rows, and curbs, and those get repaired before coating. We follow each leak to its source first. Where the steel around them is firm, coating the whole field after repairs makes more sense than patching one leak at a time.
It can. Water from melting snow sits against laps and flashing longer than rain does, and ice in a gutter pushes it back under the panels. A coated roof that looks intact can still leak at a weak lap. Once the roof is safe to walk, we trace those routes and check for freeze-thaw movement.
Send the roof size and what you are seeing, or call. We inspect first and price the coating after.
